Many places around the world have rituals or events to welcome visitors. When arriving in Hawaii, you may be greeted with a garland of flowers called a lei, for instance. Things are a bit different in St. John’s, where the ceremony that will make you, an honorary Newfoundlander is called a Screech-In. This tongue-in-cheek tradition involves drinking a shot of a locally sold rum called Screech and kissing a cod. Non-drinkers and non-fish lovers, have no fear: there is an alcohol-free version, and you can blow a kiss to the cod if you prefer.

But as fun as getting screeched can be, St. John’s — the capital of Labrador and Newfoundland, which joined Canada in 1949 and is its easternmost province — has a lot more to offer visitors. The town’s size is relatively modest, with around 110,000 people, but St. John’s offers a remarkable array of things to see and taste, from colorful architecture to an increasingly diverse dining scene.

An intimate city with views for miles

To take in the majestic scenery of St. John’s requires stepping out of the downtown area. Those interested in history and awe-inspiring sights may want to head to the Signal Hill National Historic Site, which overlooks the city. It was there that in 1901 Guglielmo Marconi established the first transatlantic wireless signal. As with the Cape Spear Lighthouse site nearby, you can explore the grounds and enjoy the views throughout the year.

To make the most of your time in St. John’s, you may want to take a walking tour. But because the city is relatively compact, it’s easy to wander about on your own and make delightful discoveries everywhere. The houses downtown have such bright colors that their area is nicknamed Jellybean Row. Quidi Vidi, in the east end of St. John’s, is a historic fishing village that is well worth a look, and the heart of George Street packs an impressive number of restaurants and places to enjoy a lively time within just two blocks. Live music is especially prized, with an emphasis on rootsy genres and Celtic influences.

Among the most impressive buildings are the two similarly named cathedrals – one Anglican and one Catholic. Dating from 1699, the Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott and is a fine example of Gothic Revival architecture. The Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (which is Catholic) is known for its stunning stained glass and works by Irish neoclassical sculptor John Hogan. The two cathedrals are less than 10 minutes from each other, and both offer tours.

Opportunities for learning, fun and exploration about in St. John’s

The Johnson Geo Center is a unique museum that takes you underground to learn about Earth’s fascinating geology. History buffs with an interest in World War II should make time for the Crow’s Nest Officers’ Club National Historic Site of Canada. A former club for allied naval officers, the Crow’s Nest maintains its authentic atmosphere with memorabilia from the Battle of the Atlantic. To immerse yourself in the culture of the region, visit The Rooms, a cultural space offering locally themed exhibitions, talks, tours, screenings and concerts.

An island outpost where traditions are alive and well — and taste delicious

St. John’s bears the imprints of its successive inhabitants: Norwegian explorers, indigenous Beothuk and Mi'kmaq people, Spanish and Portuguese fishermen – and especially immigrants from Ireland and Great Britain, who greatly influenced the area’s culinary traditions.

Naturally, fish and chips are a staple, but St. John’s also has a thriving food scene, and local chefs are turning out sophisticated seafood dishes — look for locally sourced mussels, scallops, lobster, Arctic char and Atlantic salmon. For those who are more adventurous and want turf rather than surf, moose is on the menu at many restaurants, usually served as a burger.

If you really want to get to the heart and soul of Newfoundland, you need to indulge in some hearty traditions. In the morning, try toutons, fried bread dough usually served with a drizzle of molasses. Jiggs dinner is a traditional meal made of salt beef boiled with an assortment of root vegetables and cabbage. If you see chips with dressing and gravy, just know that the dressing in question refers to stuffing, not vinaigrette or ranch. For fun edible souvenirs, go to the local supermarket and look for products made by the 100-year-old local company Purity, like flavored syrups or Jam Jam sponge cookies.

The craft beer scene has grown in leaps and bounds in the past 30 years, and you can sample locally brewed lagers and ales at several downtown locations. Conveniently, many of the dining and drinking opportunities are within walking distance of the harbor.

With an ultra-luxury Seabourn cruise, you will discover St. John’s as so many of its pioneers did: coming in from the sea, with landscapes of breathtaking beauty appearing in front of your eyes — but this time, a lovely city is nestled in their midst.